
Auvergne
- land of ancient volcanoes
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Access
to Auvergne:
By train from Paris Gare de Lyon.
By car, access from the Channel ports via Rouen, Orléans, and the A71
motorway.
By plane: Curiously, no low-cost operators serve Clermont Ferrand, and
there are no direct flights from the UK. But there are Air-France
flights from Paris, Mulhouse, Amsterdam and several other cities. The
nearest airports offering direct flights to the UK are Limoges, Lyon
and Rodez.
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All
photos copyright About-France.com
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An
introduction to the Auvergne
Auvergne
is one France's ancient
provinces. The modern Auvergne region is made up of the historic
province, plus an area in the north known as le Bourbonnais.
Apart from the north of the region, Auvergne is
essentially an area of mountains and valleys, with peaks culminating at
over 1800 metres (around 6,000 ft) and large areas of rather sparsely
inhabited uplands. It is a region reputed for its "great outdoors", its
natural environment, its old towns and villages, and its rich historic
heritage.
The capital, Clermont
Ferrand, lying at the foot of an ancient volcano, is a
city of a quarter of a million inhabitants, best known in France as the
home of the Michelin tyre company. It is a busy regional capital with
two universities, and is very much the region's economic hub.
Auvergne is made up of four departments, the
Allier (03) in the north, the Puy de dôme (63) in the middle, and the
Cantal (15) and Haute Loire (43) in the south.
The Allier,
chief city Moulins, is a prosperous agricultural department,
an area of wide valleys and gently rolling hills. Vichy, in the south
of the department, is an elegant spa town famous for its mineral water.
The Puy de Dome
department, centred round Clermont Ferrand, is also famed for its
mineral water, and several well-known types of mineral water, notably
Volvic, come up from the mineral-rich volcanic rock that characterises
this area. At the centre of the Puy de Dome is a very fertile alluvial
plain, known as la Limagne; either side, the land is much higher, with
the northern end of the main Massif Central in the west, and the
mountains of the Livradois and Forez in the east.
The two departments of the south of
Auvergne are essentially upland areas. Much of the Cantal department
lies at an altitude of over 800 metres; large areas of these uplands
are barren and treeless, such as the wide rolling grasslands of the
Cézallier. Cattle graze the uplands in summer, and the Cantal is famous
for its cheeses, notably the eponymous Cantal, but also other cheeses
such as Salers. At the centre of the Cantal department lie the Monts du
Cantal, a great volcanic bulge in the crust of southern central France.
In the far southwest corner of Cantal, the land drops off into a much
gentler area bordering on the Lot department.
The Haute
Loire department is another largely an upland area, but it
also has relatively lower lying areas consisting of the upper valleys
of the Allier and Loire rivers. In all but the high plateaux of Haute
Loire, the houses traditionally have roofs of "roman tiles", a
Mediterranean influence from bygone times which has contributed to the
nicknaming of this department as "le Midi de l'Auvergne". The capital
of Haute Loire is the small city of Le Puy-en-Velay, with its
remarkable cathedral, one of the historic starting points on the
pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostella.
A very rural region, Auvergne has not
traditionally been a major tourist destination. Apart from the spa
resorts of Vichy, Le Mont Dore and Chatel Guyon, Auvergne traditionally
had little tourist infrastructure. Even the ski resorts of Besse (63)
and Super Lioran (15) are small scale affairs. It is perhaps in part on
account of the lack of tourist facilities that in 2009, when tourism in
general fell by 6% in France, that tourism in Auvergne bucked the
national trend. While other regions saw a drop in tourist
activity, tourism in Auvergne increased in 2009 by 6% on the
crest of the surge in popularity of camping, hiking and outdoor
pursuits, for which this region offers some of the best opportunities
in France. Rural camping in Auvergne
Main tourist attractions in Auvergne

Detail of 12th century church, Issoire, showing moorish influence on
Auvergne romanesque architecture.

Art-nouveau elegance in the spa town of Vichy

Old rural traditions still survive here and there

Gentle
hill country of the Haut Allier
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- Clermont
Ferrand (63),Old town, gothic cathedral, romanesque Notre
Dame du Port, the Puy de Dome mountain (shuttle buses to the top).
- Issoire,
St Nectaire (63) Very famous Auvergnat Romanesque 12th
century churches.
- Vulcania
(63), Volcano-oriented theme park, with rides, interpretive centres,
3-D cinemas, IMAX and other attractions.
- Le
Sancy (63) Puy de Sancy is the highest point in central
France. Cablecar, hiking, rock climbing, hang-gliding and other outdoor
pursuits. Skiing in winter
- Thiers
(63) - Old small industrial city, perched on a hillside, and once
famous for its cutlery. Cutlery museum, historic factory visit.
- Ambert
(63) Moulin Richard le Bas; historic paper mill, making
hand-crafted paper to this day.
- See also official Puy de
Dome site in English
- Moulins
(03), historic
Loire valley city, old town, cathedral.
- Vichy
(03) - elegant former spa
town. Opera house, the spa buildings, the plan d'eau (artificial lake
on the river Allier), riverside gardens, racecourse.
- Lapalisse
(03) - Fine private Renaissance castle,
overlooking the small town. Guided visits, grounds.
- Noyant
d'Allier (03) Mining museum. Trip in an old mine train,
and through a reconstructed section of mine.
- Monts
du Cantal (15) cluster of former volcanoes; ridge
walking, hiking, skiing and cablecar at super Lioran (cablecar open in
summer). Pas de Peyrol. high mountain pass accessible by car.
- Cézallier
and Planèze: (15) high prairies. hiking, mountain-biking.
- Murat:
(15) attractive small town at the foot of the Monts du
Cantal.
- Salers:
(15) very touristy but authentic old small town. Narrow
streets, boutiques,
- St.
Flour. (15) Capital of "High Auvergne"; an austere small
city perched on the edge of an ancient lava flow.
- Pont
de Garabit (15). Famous historic railway viaduct over the
river Truyère. Designed by Gustave Eiffel. Viewing centre on the A75
motorway.
- Gorges
de la Truyère. (15) flooded valley, beneath the
Pont de Garabit. Boat trips and hire. Chateau d'Alleuze, dramatic
mediaeval fortress.
- Le
Puy en Velay (43) Old city with fine romanesque cathedral
and cloisters: chapelle St. Michel de l'Aiguilhe, 10th century chapel
perched on top of a rocky pinnacle (access on foot up 268 steps).
- Brioude
& Haut Allier: (43) very attractive valley, with a
cluster of remarkable romanesque churches and chapels, many with
wall-paintings. Gallo-roman mine -underground visits).
- La
Chaise Dieu (43): austere Benedictine abbey famous for its
Dance of Death murals, and its music festival.
- Chaviniac
Lafayette (43). Chateau of the counts of Lafayette. Visits.
- Le
Monastier (43). Twelfth century abbey, small town, from
where RL Stevenson set off on is famous "Travels with a Donkey".
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