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- the connoisseur's guide to France
An
introduction to Burgundy
Map of Burgundy - vineyard areas shaded in pink
Today, Burgundy makes up the eastern half of the new
Bourgogne–Franche-Comté region of France. Burgundy lies astride the
main lines of communication between Paris and Lyon, and anyone
travelling by train or on the French motorway network between Paris or
north-east France, and Lyon and the south of France, must pass through
it. The area and former region is bordered by the river Loire, in the
west, and
by the
Franche-Comté
and
Champagne areas in
the
east. To the south it is bordered by the
Rhone
Alpes area.
Burgundy is made
up of four departments. Northern Burgundy comprises the
department of the
Yonne
(89), capital Auxerre, a rolling
agricultural area bordering on the outer fringes of the Paris region.
In the west, the
Nièvre
(58), capital Nevers, is a hilly department that includes the
Hotels
in Burgundy
Choose
from hundreds of Burgundy hotels available at best rates
highest
peak of the Morvan hills (Le Haut Folin, 903 m), and a large
part of the Morvan
regional regional park. The
Côte-d'Or
department (21), around Dijon, is hilly in the north west, and flat in
the south east; finally the department of
Saône
& Loire (71) in the south of the region stretches
from the banks of the Loire
in the west to the foothills of the Jura in the east, and includes
large flat expanses of the Saône valley.
The historic and modern capital of the
Burgundy region is
Dijon
(population 150,000), a thriving administrative and cultural centre,
which is also a major communications and freight-distribution hub. The
city is just 1hr. 40 mins. from Paris by direct TGV high-speed train
service. Dijon has a historic city centre, with old narrow
streets, and houses built in the local pale honey-coloured stone; of
particular interest to visitors are the Palace of the Dukes of
Burgundy, and the gothic Cathedral of Saint Bénigne. The centre of old
Dijon is classed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The world-famous
Burgundy
vineyards
produce some of the most prestigious and expensive wines in the world.
The top wines are mostly produced on a narrow strip of land running
south
from Dijon, on the western fringe of the Saône
plain, in the Côtes de Nuits and the Côtes de
Beaune
vineyard areas. These include names such as Gevrey-Chambertin,
Vosne-Romanée, Pommard, Volnay and Clos Vougeot. Many of
the top vineyards, which are quite small and called "Clos" (closed
areas) are protected behind stone
walls and iron gates, so valuable are the grapes that they produce.
They are probably the most valuable agricultural real estate in the
world.
Fortunately most top Burgundy wines do not come in at silly prices like
this. Some red
Grands Crus
can still be bought for under 100 Euros... and
Premiers Crus for a
third of this. Generic "Bourgogne" reds and "Bourgogne Aligoté" whites
are comparable in price to wines from other areas .
How
to reach the Burgundy area :
By
TGV train from
Paris Gare
de Lyon, or from Lille; train from many cities, motorway from
Paris, Lille, Strasbourg, Nancy, Lyon, Geneva.
By air: There
is currently no commercial airport in the Burgundy area operating
regular international flights. The north of the region is
accessible from the
Paris airports,
the south of the region is closer to
Lyon St
Euxpéry airport
Selected
BURGUNDY
HOTELS:
Good
value and convenient hotels in Burgundy
- The
About-France.com selection.
- Dijon
(21 Côte d'or) Gare
The Hotel
Kyriad
Dijon Gare is located opposite the railway station, and a good choice
for visitors arriving by train. This air-conditioned upper **
hotel, with pool, is well located for exploring Dijon and the
area, and is well reviewed by travellers. Plenty of restaurants close
by.
- Beaune
(21 Côte d'Or)
Hostellerie
le Cèdre
***** Warm hospitality, reasonably priced for the
quality.
This hotel occupies a historic villa close to the old town. The famous
Hospices are in walking distance . A comfortable base for exploring
Burgundy.
- Beaune
(21 Côte d'Or)
Hotel
de la Cloche
** For those on a tighter budget, this is reputedly the best address in
the centre of Beaune. Some parts could do with a new coat of paint, but
this is a friendly hotel and good value for money.
- Vezelay
(89 Yonne)
Hotel
de la Poste et du Lion d'Or
Classic French hospitality in the old centre of Vézelay, below the hill
on which stands the great basilica. The hotel is in a calm location,
and has large clean rooms
- Hotel
le Mas des Lilas
** Close to the river Yonne, this is a modern ** hotel just
south
of Auxerre; it has large mature gardens, and is close to the RN6
highway, a few kilometres from Exit 20 on the A6 Paris-Lyon motorway.
- Near
Autun - Morvan (71 Saone et Loire)
Auberge
de la Chaloire
** Not far from Autun, with its magnificent cathedral, this hotel is
located in the heart of the Morvan regional park. quiet rural location,
friendly welcome, and very good service.
- Off
A6 motorway Chalon sur
Saône (71 Saone et Loire)
Hotel
Ibis
*** A short distance and easy to find from the A6 motorway, exit 25,
this standard Ibis hotel has an outdoor pool.
- Tournus
- (71 Saone et Loire)
Le
Rempart ***
is a hotel with 34 rooms and lots of character, which was once
a
guard house. It has two restaurants, and stands in the centre of old
Tournus, near the river Saone and St. Philibert church. Easy
access from A6 motorway , exit 27.
- Nevers
(58 Nièvre)
The Hotel
Astrea is
a modern ** hotel in a quiet location just a short distance from the
the old town.Good value, and facilities for the disabled.
Main
tourist
attractions
in Burgundy
Routes
and areas:
- The
Burgundy
canal (Canal de Bourgogne) and rivers Saône and Yonne
waterways.
- The Morvan
mountains - forested uplands
Côte
d'Or department (21)
- Alésia
- near Montbard. Muséoparc
Living
history museum on the site of the Battle of Alesia, where Julius Caesar
defeated the Gauls, led by Vercingetorix in 52 BC.
Interpretive center and archaeological museum. Part
reconstitution of the Roman defences. Historic reenactments.
- Les
Hospices
de Beaune
- the medieval hospice at Beaune is one of the most
unusual ancient
monuments in France, a medieval hospital that opened in 1483
and remained in
use
for five centuries – until the late 20th century. Today the hospice is
a museum and art
gallery, and contains one of the most famous works of medieval Flemish
art, the Beaune altarpiece by Rogier van der Weyden, painted for the
hospice,
and still in situ. The hospices, with their sixty hectares of prime
Burgundy vineyards, are still owned by the Beaune Hospital; the annual
Beaune wine auction - now run by Christie's – is the world's most
prestigious wine auction, with profits going to the hospital and to
medical research.
- Beaune
area: the vineyards
of Burgundy, cellars and estate visits. Visit the Chateau du Clos
Vougeot or the château de Pommard, near Beaune, or the
Burgundy wine
museum in Beaune. Route des vins des Grands Crus - the Grand vintage
wine trail. See Burgundy
wines
- Dijon:
the capital city of Burgundy; historic city, palace of the
dukes of Burgundy, gothic Cathedral, Museum, shops
- Fontenay
great Cistercian
abbey
(UNESCO World
Heritage Site), near Montbard.
Saone
& Loire department 71
- Autun
-
the small town on the edge of the Morvan hills boasts one of the
finest romanesque cathedrals in France, with
remarkable sculptures, as well as a number of Roman remains, including
city walls, and two city gates.
- Digoin,
in the extreme west of Burgundy, is a popular pleasure boating centre,
at the junction of the Loire valley canal and the Canal du Centre, and
has a fine canal aqueduct over the Loire
- The site of Cluny,
the old town
and the remains of the Benedictine abbey, once the largest
chuch in Chrisendom.
- Cormatin,
between Chalon s/ Saône and Cluny. Fine 17th century château surrounded
by a moat, and recently renovated gardens. Richly decorated
interiors, including
the golden rooms.
Open daily April to mid-November.
- Le
Creusot -
former mining and steel town, le Creusot has one of the world's largest
preserved steam hammers, built in 1876. For those with an interest in
industrial archaeology...
- Le
Maconnais
- the southern
part of the Burgundy vineyards,
around the city of Macon.
- Tournus;
The church of St
Philibert is
one of the oldest churches in France (early 11th
century).
- Semur
en Brionnais. Listed among the "plus beaux villages de
France" Semur is a bit off the beaten trail so is rarely
swamped by tourists. Fine medieval chateau and Burgundian romanesque
church
Yonne
department (89)
- The
romanesque churches of Burgundy, including the remarkable Abbaye de Vézelay
(UNESCO World Heritage Site),
starting point of one of the main
pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostella. There are many delightful
historic churches in the Saone et Loire area
- Auxerre
and Chablis
- the northern part of the Burgundy vineyards, old towns, wine museums
and cellar visits. Auxerre is a popular centre for boating on the Yonne
and Burgundy canal.
- Avallon
- attractive old walled town
- Guédelon
- the castle featured on BBC television's "Secrets of
the Castle" series. Treigny. amazing living history
attraction; since 1997, a team of
craftsmen
have been building a medieval castle, using historic methods and tools.
- Montreal
- famous fortified hilltop village
Nièvre
department (58)
- La Charité sur Loire Historic
small town with several monuments. The large Romanesque Notre
Dame
basilica, with fine sculpted tympana, is a UNESCO heritage
site on
the Pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostella. Sixteenth centry stone
bridge over the Loire. Sections of medieval ramparts.
- The
Morvan
regional natural park. Area of outstanding natural
beauty (mostly in
the Nièvre), popular with hikers and nature-lovers. Though
peaking at
only just over 900m, this is seen as the closest area
of mountain to Paris.
- Nevers;
historic town on the banks of the river Loire, at the confluence of the
Allier. The Palace of the Dukes of Nevers is a fine Renaissance
château. St Cyr & Ste. Juliette's Cathedral is a fine small
gothic
cathedral in the Burgundian style.
- The vineyards of Pouilly
sur Loire
Further
tourist information
Official Burgundy
tourism site
Photo top of page:
The Hôtel Dieu in Beaune. Also known as the Hospices de Beaune, this is
a unique Medieval hospital opened in 1443, and in operation as a
hospital until the 1980s. The remarkably preserved building still
contains the historic beds and hospital equipment from the past, as
well as the invaluable Beaune altarpiece, painted for the hospital by
Flemish artist Rogier van der Weyden.
Famed
the world over for its wines, Burgundy is one of the great
historic regions of France; indeed, in the Middle Ages, Burgundy was
the great dukedom which rivalled in power and prestige with the kingdom
of France itself. In those days it covered a large part of central
eastern France, including half of modern-day Switzerland.
Burgundy grands crus.... for special occasions
Burgundy
village
A Burgundy "Grand cru" vineyard, protected by stone walls and iron
gates
Romanesque typanum of Autun cathedral
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except where otherwise indicated.
Photo of Guédelon ©
Guédelon