| For
hundreds of years, France basked in the reputation of being the world's
greatest producer of wines. Today, that reputation is being challenged
by other wine-growing nations on four continents, and the French wine
industry is going through bad times. Things hit a low in 2003 when
French wine producers saw a 40% drop in sales of Burgundy, partly due
to the US boycott; it was also due to the fact that the French wine
industry has been slow to adapt to the modern international competition
. Yet for those who know how to choose, and know something about wines,
France still offers some of the greatest wines, with the greatest
variety, and - yes ! - excellent value for money, even from the main
wine areas. |
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The
main wine growing regions of
France
Alsace.
Bordeaux Burgundy Beaujolais
Champagne. Côtes du Rhone Jura
Languedoc Loire Valley Médoc
Provence
Alsace. Situated
on the lower eastern slopes of the Vosges
mountains, in the Rhine valley between Strasbourg
and Mulhouse, the Alsace vineyard is rather
different from any other French wine growing area. Like the region
of Alsace itself,
the wine culture here is steeped in a Germanic tradition, producing
mostly dry or fruity white wines, the most popular being Riesling,
Sylvaner and the very fruity Gewurztraminer.
The rules of Appellation
contrôlée are not applied in the same way in Alsace as in the
rest of France. In Alsace, wines are produced under a simple "Alsace"
appellation, after which the next most important element to be
indicated, and the most visible word on the label, is the grape variety
or "cépage", Sylvaner, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Tokay, Pinot or a few
others. Smaller areas do not have their own appellations, though with
many Alsace wines, the name of the village or vineyard from which it
comes will also be indicated. See also Vendanges tardives.
Lorraine,
also in north east France, produces mostly VDQS white wines, in the
Meuse and the Moselle.
Bordeaux Wine,
and wine growing region. With Burgundy and Champagne, the Bordeaux
region of Aquitaine is one of
the three most famous French wine-producing regions. Historically,
its fame is at least in part due to the fact that of these three big
grape-growing areas, the Bordeaux vineyard is the only one with
immediate access to the sea, an advantage that has enabled it to be
France's major wine exporting region for many centuries.
In 1152, when queen Eleanor of
Aquitaine married the English king Henry II, the Aquitaine region
became economically integrated into the Anglo-Norman world, the
Bordeaux region becoming the main supplier of wine for England. This
historic wine exporting tradition helped Bordeaux to develop far
stronger commercial links in the ensuing centuries, firmly establishing
Bordeaux wines, often referred to generically in English as "clarets",
on the international market.
The Bordeaux vineyard is centered
round the port city of Bordeaux , along the
estuary of the Gironde, and the rivers Garonne and Dordogne.
It is a large vineyard, and the geo-specific appellation "Bordeaux"
covers an area stretching some 100 km both north-south and east-west.
While the appellation
contrôlée covers wines of medium quality from all over this
region, many if not most of the top quality clarets grown in the
overall area benefit from more specific and distinctive area
appellations, such as Médoc , Graves
or Saint Emilion, and even more local appellations
such as Pauillac, Graves and Saint-Estèphe.
Unlike other French wine-growing
areas,
the Bordeaux area operates classifications of many of its top wines,
notably those from the Médoc and Saint
Emilion vineyards. The best estates in these areas have the
right to sell wines designated as grand cru. Below
the grand crus come other high quality wines designated as cru
bourgeois.
Tip: 2009
is said to be an exceptionally good vintage year.
Bourgogne
, vin ( Burgundy wine). The
vineyards of the Burgundy region cover
a narrow strip of land on the eastern slopes of the hills running
south-east from the Burgundian Capital, Dijon. the heart of the
Burgundy wine growing region is the historic city of Beaune, where the
autumn wine sale in the historic "Hospices" building is one of the high
points of the wine year. Burgundy wines are classified on four levels,
the lowest being the generic "Bourgogne" appellation. Selected areas of
the Burgundy vineyard have their own classifications, such as Côtes de
Beaune. Within these, there are smaller areas, villages and groups of
villages, reputed to produce higher quality wine, such as Pernand
Vergelesse or Aloxe Corton. Finally, at the top of the pyramid, there
are the estate wines, such as Clos Vougeot, with its mere 51 hectares
of vineyard. Finding ones way around Burgundy wines is sometimes a
daunting task. The best Burgundy wines are the reds, the best of which
can keep for a good 20 to 30 years. However, Burgundy also produces
some top quality, though not too distinctive, whites. It is often said
that generic burgundies "Bourgogne Rouge" or Bourgogne Passetoutgrains"
white are overpriced and bad value for money.
A good tip: 2003 is said to be one of the best vintages for many years.
►Beaujolais: In
the south of the Burgundy region, bordering the Rhone valley vineyards,
a large area round Beaujeu produces a light red wine known as
Beaujolais, paradoxically one of the most famous French wines.. This is
a wine that does not usually keep for very many
years, and over the last fifty years it has been successfully marketed
as a " vin primeur",
or young wine, to be drunk after just a few weeks of maturing. But the
success of Beaujolais Nouveau - launched on the market each year on the
third Thursday of November - has more to do with clever marketing than
with any real quality of the wine.
Champagne. The Champagne
region, centered on the towns of Reims (Rheims) and Epernay,
is the most northern of France's major vineyards. Unlike most of the
best
French wines, champagnes are blended in order to produce either non
vintage champagnes (blended from different years) or vintage champagne,
blended from wines of the same harvest. Consequently, since the quality
of the champagne ultimately depends on a balance between the quality of
the grapes and the skill of the blenders, Champagnes are also ranked
and promoted by producer, not by any more finely delimited appellation
. Possibly the most highly rated of blends is Krug; other well
appreciated brands include Mumm, Bollinger and Heidsieck, not to
mention the very well known brands of Moët & Chandon and
Taittinger.
The distinct taste and purity of real champagne is certainly due to the
chalky soil and the continental growing conditions that abound in the
Champagne region. Several of the main French Champagne producers have
set up branches and vineyards in California, but in spite of bringing
over their best master-blenders, have never been able to achieve quite
the same result.
Although many people imagine that Champagnes are all white, this is not
quite true. Rosé champagnes also exist.
Finally, please, the correct way to open a champagne cork is to ease it
very gently out of the bottle. It is not to imitate a victorious
Formula One racing driver and spray the contents of the bottle all over
one's guests.
Cognac:
/ Charentes: The
Cognac / Charentes region
is a major wine area, though normal wine itself is not the main product
of the region; the wine produced is mostly used for distilling into
Cognac or other spirits, or else for the production of a delicious
apéritif wine known as Pineau des Charentes. Some white wine is
produced under the Vin de Pays label, and there are some vineyards that
produce rosé or even red wines.
Côtes
du Rhone.
Côtes du Rhône is one of those French wines that has become famous on
account more as a result of the extent of the vineyard than of
the
quality of the wine. The Côtes du Rhône vineyard runs for over 200
kilometres down the Rhone valley from the south of Lyons to the
Camargue. Within the region, there are a number of prestigious smaller
areas such as Côte Rotie (in the northern part of the region),
Hermitage or Chateauneuf du Pape (near Avignon). But the vast majority
of Côtes du Rhône wine is sold under the generic appellations, "Côtes
du Rhône" or "Côtes du Rhone Villages". This is a mediterranean wine,
and generally speaking it is a wine blended from the different
classic grape varieties of the South of France, including most notably
Viognier, Syrah, and Grenache.
Price-wise, Côtes du Rhône are often at the cheaper end of the
"appellation contrôlée" range.
Jura.
Possibly the most underrated of French white
wines, Jura wines come from the south of the Franche-Comté region,
the west-facing slopes of the Jura hills that look out across the wide
Saône valley to the slopes of Burgundy on the other side. The best and
most distinctive of Jura whites are made from the "Savagnin" grape
variety, which is found only in this region, and gives the wine a
delicious sherry-like taste. However, most Jura wines are blended from
different varieties, and as in Alsace, the grape variety tends to be
indicated on the label. the Jura vineyard also produces dark rosé
wines, sometimes called reds, as well as the famous "yellow wine", Vin
Jaune, an expensive apéritif wine not unlike Amontillado
sherry, made exclusively from the Savagnin grape variety. The most
prestigious appellation for Vin Jaune is Château Chalon. This wine is
made from late harvested grapes, and then left to mature in casks for
at least six years.
Languedoc.
The Languedoc region,
covering the Mediterranean coastal plain west of the Rhone, produces a
lot of fairly ordinary red wine, much of it marketed as VDQS or Vin de
Pays. Languedoc is the largest French wine producing area in terms of
volume. There are seven Appellations controlées in
the area,
the best-known of which is Corbières, and possibly the best average
quality of which is Fitou. AOC wines account for some 10% of the
region's production. Thanks to the long hours of summer sun, grapes
ripen well and quickly in this region, which means that Languedoc wines
are rich and full bodied, and often have high alcohol content. The
wines of Roussillon are very similar, this area being particularly
noted for its fortified wines such as Banyuls.
Loire
Valley. Although there are some excellent wines produced
in the large Loire Valley area,
there are few Loire wines, whites, rosés or pale reds, that rank among
the greatest French wines. "Anjou Rosé" is a good everyday rosé, and
"Muscadet" and "Gros Plant" from near the mouth of the Loire are dry
white wines that go excellently with seafood.. Another good appellation
is "Pouilly Fumé" (not to be confused with "Pouilly Fuissé", a white
Burgundy). The Loire valley, however, is also France's second largest
producer of sparkling wines, after Champagne. The region also produces
vin gris, "grey wine", which is actually a very pale rosé, being a
white wine made from black grapes. Two of the more prestigious
varieties are Vouvray and Saumur. While there are plenty of Loire wines
that benefit from appellations controlées, others are sold under the
VDQS label.
Médoc
wines. The Médoc, the region south of the Gironde estuary to the north
west of Bordeaux, is the home of many of the most
prestigious French wines. Among the famous appellations
produced in this
area are Saint Estèphe, Margaux, Saint Julien and Pauillac. It was in
1855 that the wine producers of the Medoc region classified their 61
best wines according to a league table of "grands crus", ranking from
"Premier Cru" to "Cinquième Cru". These grands crus are generally
reputed to be the greatest of all French wines, and naturally their
prices generally reflect this status. Obviously, if you buy an estate
bottled wine from a chateau with grand cru status, (and of course they
are all estate bottled), you can be pretty sure of getting a top
quality wine. But take care! Even a grand cru wine can go off if it is
not matured and cared for in the best conditions.
Other
south-west France
wines - Inland from the Bordeaux / Saint Emilion regions, there are a
number of smaller less well-known wine growing areas, producing some
quite good wines at very reasonable prices. These include Bergerac,
Cahors, Gaillac and Marcillac (all Appellation Contrôlée wines) , or
Côtes du Tarn or Vin de Pays du Lot.
Provence - Provence
is a large wine-producing area, best-known for its rosé wines, the most
famous of which are Côtes de Provence and Côteaux d'Aix. However, the
Provence vineyard also produces red wines, including some very rich red
wines from the Var, and "grey wine" from the Camargue area. The most
famous of the area's white wines is Bandol, celebrated since the middle
ages. Note that the Provence vineyard also includes the southern end of
the Côtes du Rhone AOC area.
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