Collioure - between mountain and sea

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  Standing on the shore of the Mediterranean, at the point where the Pyrenees mountains meet the sea, Collioure is one of the most picturesque small towns on the south coast of France.
    Long before France was defined by the borders we know today, Collioure was part of the kingdom of Aragon, which extended either side of what is now the international border between France and Spain. The site was a useful natural harbour, sheltered from the north winds, and protected since the early Middle Ages by an imposing castle, first established under Guifred, Count of Roussillon, in the late tenth century.
    Throughout the Middle Ages, territories around the Pyrenees were the subject of numerous conflicts between kingdoms and counties to the north, areas that are now in France, and kingdoms to the south, which are now part of Spain; and for many centuries, Aragon and Catalonia and Navarre occupied territory on both sides of the Pyrenees. With its strategic seaside location, Collioure was an important bastion.
     After 1659, when the Treaty of the Pyrenees established the modern-day border between France and Spain, Collioure's strategic importance became that of a frontier garrison, protecting France from any potential incursion from the south; but barring a short interlude in 1793-94 when the Spanish briefly took Collioure during the War of the Pyrenees, the town's history has been largely peaceful.
    In 1864 – long before the birth of modern tourism – the railway reached Collioure, making the town accessible from Perpignan and places far beyond; but Collioure did not grow significantly; the town's harbour was too shallow for larger 19th century vessels, and commercial activity moved to the deeper creek just to the south, at Port Vendres. It was in the late 19th century, as tourism slowly began to develop, that artists in search of the bright light and colours of the Mediterranean began visiting Collioure, painting its old sea front , its harbour and hillsides. First to come was the pointilliste post-Impressionist Paul Signac who first "discovered" Collioure in 1888; over the coming years, the town attracted  many more artists, including Marquet, Picasso, Braque, Matisse, Chagall, and the Scotland's Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
    Today, Collioure showcases its artistic heritage with reproductions of works by Chagall and others at the spot where they were painted, along the town's picturesque quayside, by its rocky shore, and in its narrow streets. Set among the pines and the olive trees on the far side of the harbour, opposite the Royal Fortress, the Collioure Museum of Modern Art has a good collectiion of twentieth century works by artists including Jean Peské, Max Ernst, Claude Viallat and Albert André.
    Standing beside the Mediterranean in the most southerly part of continental France, Collioure enjoys a temperate climate, and attracts visitors at all times of the year. Naturally, the town is particularly busy in July and August. In 2024, Collioure was voted France's favourite small town.

• Royal Fortress. (35 km) Built up between the Middle Ages and the 17th century, this impressive fortress houses a museum
• Notre-Dame-des-Anges church.  Standing litterally at the water's edge, beside the harbour, this 17th century church, with its baroque interior, is Collioure's iconic landmark .
• The old town and harbour.  The town is built round the harbour, its narrow streets bordered by arts and crafts shops, cafés and restaurants. Boat trips and fishing trips are available from the harbour.
• The Museum of Modern Art On the south side of the harbout, the Modern Art museum houses a colection of 20th century art from artists associated with Collioure. Closed Tuesdays.
• St. Elme Fortress. On a hill high above the town, this fortress, accessible by car or on foot, offers panoramic views down onto the town, and along the coast to the north.
• Collioure windmill - An old windmill that has been recently restored as a working olive oil press. Access is up the hill on foot, from beside the Museum of Modern Art.

• Elne -15 km - One of those small French towns that the guide books seem to have failed to notice, Elne, once an important city, has a small cathedral with one of the finest and largest romanesque cloisters in France. 
• Port Vendres - 3 km - the next small port, south of Collioure, has fishing boats and a small commercial port specialised in fruit
• The Costa Brava The northern part of Spain's Costa Brava can be easily reached by car, over a twisting coastal road, and even by train, with a change at the historic frontier station of Port Bou (30 km).. 
• Céret - 35 km. Deslightful small town with impressive Museum of Modern Art, with works by Picasso, Chagall, Matisse and many others. Market on Saturdays.
• Figueres (Spain) -  60 km. Very popular Salvador Dali museum, in the town where the artist was born and died.
• Massif des Albères. The Massif des Albères, form the eastern end of the frontier between France and Spain, and provide plenty of opportunities for hiking in the hills behind Collioure
• Saint Cyprien - 15 km. Over 100 years old, the Capellans Botanical Garden (Jardin des plantes de Capellan) is A 5 hectare botanical garden, with over 500 species, including a unique collection of palm trees and a large bamboo grove.
• The vineyards of Banyuls. - 12 km. The village of Banyuls produces a distinctive aperitif wine, from remarkable steep stony terraced vineyards on the slopes of the mountains exposed to the Mediterranean.

•  By air   The nearest airports are at Perpignan in France and Girona (well served by low cost airlines) in Spain.
• By train  There are direct daily TGV high-speed train services to Perpignan from Paris, Toulouse, Marseilles and Barcelona. From Montpellier or Perpignan train station connect to the local TER train which stops close to the old town
• By car  Collioure is a short distance from the A9  (Paris -) Montpellier - Spain motorway. Leave at Exit 43 signposted Le Boulou, and follow D618 to Argelès, then D914.