Issoire - in the Auvergne

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Lying 35 kilometers to the south of Clermont Ferrand, a couple of kilometres to the west of the river Allier, Issoire is one of the many attractive small towns of the Auvergne area. The town is located at the southern exit from the northern Allier gorge, and began life as the site of a small settlement with a church honouring Saint Austremoine, reputed as the man who converted the Arverne tribes to Christianity in the third century.
  The settlement was largely abandoned from the sixth to the ninth centuries, but grew up again in the early middle ages, notably with the creation of a major Benedictine monastery on the site. The great monastery church, the Abbey church of Saint Austremoine, was consecrated in or around the year 1130, and stands to this day.

Old Issoire

 The limits of the old town are clearly visible on the map, encircled as they are today by a boulevard. The old centre is skirted to the west by what was, until the arrival of the A75 motorway, the N9 road running from Clermont Ferrand to the Spanish border.
  Most of the old town dates from the seventeenth century or later, since Issoire was sacked during the wars of religion. The abbey church of Saint Austremoine was however largely spared, and although it was extensively renovated in the 19th century, it remains to this day as one of the Five Great Romanesque churches of the Auvergne, along with the nearby churches of Saint Nectaire, Orcival, St. Saturnin, and Notre Dame du Port in Clermont Ferrand.
    These five historic churches are the classic examples of the distinctive Auvergne Romanesque style. Saint Austremoine in Issoire is noted for the exuberant murals in the choir and the apse. Though these date from the 19th century, they give an authentic impression of the way many churches were decorated  in medieval times, specially monastic churches with access to artists and funds.
    The outside of the romanesque apse of Saint Austremoine boasts fine decorative polychrome stonework in the style similar to the great medieval churches to the south, St. Julian's Basilica in Brioude, and the Cathedral of Le Puy en Velay.
    Immediately south of the abbey, on the site of the former Benedictine monastery, the Georges Duby Romanesque Art Centre has a display of early medieval artefacts.
    The focal point of the old town is the Place de la République, with its cafés, shops and restaurants; nearby stands the Tour de l'Horloge, or clock tower; originally built in the 16th century. The tower as it stands today is the a 19th century renovation, built in the signature grey Volvic basalt that has long been used for important buildings in and around Clermont Ferrand. Climb up to the terrace for a fine view of the rooftops and beyond. The fountain in the middle of the square is built with the same Volvic stone.

• Out-door activities The area round Issoire has a dense network of marked hiking trails, cycling routes and mountain-biking circuits. there is also kayaking on the river Allier (several canoe/kayak hire locations - summer only). 
• The Auvergne wildlife park at Ardes sur Couze, 24 km southwest of Issoire. A mountainside wildlife park, incorporating areas of forest and  natural cliffs.   Website
• Montpeyroux. Half way between Clermont Ferrand, and just off the A75 motorway, Montpeyroux, a hilltop village distinctly recognisable by the round medieval tower in the middle of the village, is classed as one of the Most beautiful villages in France.
• Murol, near Saint Nectaire, has an impressive medieval fortress, with historic reenactments in the summer months
• Saint Nectaire. Small town 25 km west of Issoire, with two claims to fame: on the one hand its cheese, Saint-Nectaire being one of the best-known cheeses of the Auvergne; on the other hand its fine romanesque church, dating from the same period as St. Austremoine in Issoire. A third attraction in Saint Nectaire are the petrifying springs, whose very mineral-rich waters rapidly coat objects in calcite.  An underground visit takes in a 14 metre waterfall, hot springs, and the workshops where craftsmen have been petrifying objects for over 200 years.
• Santiago de Compostela trails. St Austremoine is a key point on the Via Arverna, one of the historic branches of the Compostela prilgrimage trails, also called the Way of St. James. This Arverna trail begins at the church of Notre Dame du Port in Clermont Ferrand, continues southwards to Brioude, and from there westwards into the Cantal volcano area and thence to Moissac, Saint Jean Pied de Port, and on into Spain.

Further afield

A black bear dozes in a treetop at the Auvergne wildlife park, Ardes sur Couze,  half an hour from Issoire


• Ambert - 60 km east of Issoire - small town with a historic and still operating paper mill, le Moulin Richard de Bas
• Clermont-Ferrand - the historic capital of the Auvergne region - all you would expect of a regional capital.
• La Chaise-Dieu : austere benedictine abbey situated at an altitude of 1000 metres. World-renowned "dance macabre" frescoes and historic tapestries.
• The Puy de Dome - iconic dormant volcano, overlooking the city of Clermont Ferrand. Rack and pinion reilway to the summit.
• The Puy de Sancy - 60 km west of Issoire, with its peak at 1886 metres above sea level  this volcanic outcrop is the highest peak in the Massif Central, and thus the highest point between the Alps and the Pyrenees. There is a cablecar to the summit from near the resort of Le Mont Dore.
• Vulcania theme park, in the mountains to the west of Clermont Ferrand, a popular volcano themed attraction, with rides, 3D cinema and other things to see and do.

•  By air   The nearest airport is Clermont Ferrand, served all year by flights from Paris and Amsterdam, and sometimes from London. The nearest major airport is Lyon St.Exupéry ( 3 hrs drive), which has flights all over Europe.
• By train  Issoire is a short 20 minute train ride from Clermont-Ferrand. Clermont-Ferrand is three and a half hours from Paris. There are also trains from Nimes and Aurillac
• By car  Issoire is on the A75 (Paris-) Clermont-Ferrand - Montpellier motorway.  It is under 3 hours from Lyon.
• By bike  Issoire is just off the new V70 Via Allier long-distance cycle route, a delightful north-south cycle route that will eventually be signposted right down to the Mediterranean. At present it is fully waymarked from Nevers, on the Loire, to Langogne near the source of the Allier.